If a mistake is made in programming, press the RESET key twice and start again. ENTRY TIME Enter Eng Mode Enter 30 Two LED’s show (indicating that two keys are to be pressed) Enter new time in seconds (01=10sec; 02=20sec and so on).
EXIT TIME In ENG MODE Enter 31 Two LED’s show (indicating that two keys are to be pressed) Enter new time in seconds (01=10sec; 02=20sec and so on). BELL TIME In ENG MODE Enter 21 Two LED’s show (indicating that two keys are to be pressed) Enter new time in seconds (01=5min; 02=10min and so on). BELL DELAY In ENG MODE Enter 20 Two LED’s show (indicating that two keys are to be pressed) Enter new time in seconds (01=2min; 02=4min and so on). SPEAKER DURATION In ENG MODE Enter 23 Two LED’s show (indicating that two keys are to be pressed) Enter new time in seconds (01=5min; 02=10min and so on).
SPEAKER DELAY In ENG MODE Enter 22 Two LED’s show (indicating that two keys are to be pressed) Enter new time in seconds (01=2min; 02=4min and so on). AUTO RE-ARMON (factory set on) In ENG MODE Enter 14 ( system will re-armwhen bell stops) AUTO RE-ARMOFF. Enter 04 (auto re-armis now off) SILENT P.A. (factory set at all sounders) In ENG MODE Enter 11 (silent P.A. Will still operate the communicator relay) AUDIBLE P.A. (factory set at all sounders) In ENG MODE Enter 01 (sounders now ON) ENGINEER RESET ONLY In ENG MODE Enter 15 CUSTOMER RESET In ENG MODE Enter 05 PROG.
ENGINEER CODE In ENG MODE Enter 41 Four led’s lit Enter new code TO PROGRAMME A ZONE THAT CUSTOMER CANNOT OMIT In ENG MODE Enter 47 Then the zone no. The respective led will light as each zone is entered. Re-enter47 TO ENABLE CUSTOMER TO OMIT ZONES PREVIOUSLY INHIBITED In ENG MODE Enter 47 Then the zone no.
The respective led will go out as each zone is entered. Re-enter47 TO PROGRAMME ACCESS ZONES In ENG MODE. Enter 42 then the zone number(s) that are required. As a zone is entered that zone led will light. The zone(s) led will go out. TO REMOVE ACCESS ZONES As above enter 42. Then the zone number(s) that are required.
As a zone is entered that zone led will go out. The zone(s) led will go out.
SOAK TEST ZONES In ENG MODE Enter 45 then the zone number(s) that are required. As a zone is entered that zone led will light. The zone(s) led will go out. REMOVE SOAK TEST ZONES In ENG MODE Enter 45 then the zone number(s) that are required. As a zone is entered that zone led will go out.
The zone(s) led will go out ZONE PAIRING In ENG MODE Enter 46 then the zone numbers that are required. As a zone is entered that zone led will light. The zones led will go out. REMOVE ZONE PAIRING In ENG MODE Enter 46 then the zone numbers that are required. As a zone is entered that zone led will go out Enter 46. The zones led will go out.
PROGRAMME PART SET ZONES In ENG MODE Enter 44 then the zone numbers that are required. As a zone is entered that zone led will light. The zones led will go out. DE-ACTIVATEPART SET ZONES In ENG MODE. Enter 44 then the zone numbers that are required. As a zone is entered that zone led will go out Enter 44. The zones led will go out PART SET EXIT ZONE 1 (TIMED) In ENG MODE Enter 17 Zone 1 is now part set exit REMOVE PART SET EXIT ZONE 1 (TIMED) In ENG MODE Enter 17 Zone 1 is NOT now part set exit COMM RELAY ACTIVE IN PART SET In ENG MODE Enter 06 Relay is now active in part set COMM RELAY NOT ACTIVE IN PART SET In ENG MODE Enter 06 Relay is now NOT active in part set COMM RELAY ACTIVE IN PART SET In ENG MODE Enter 16 Relay is now active in part set MAINS LED ON OR OFF WHEN ARMED In ENG MODE Enter 03 (led on when armed) Or Enter 13 (led off when armed) Press reset, reset to exit.
I have an Omnicron 7000 system installed for many years. Very reliable, only very rare lock-ups which I was told were static problems. (Probably true, it happened most often in very prolonged dry weather.
That's why they were so rare I guess!!). Anyway, I added another PIR a few weeks ago. There are now 4 PIRs, plus various door sensors.
We are geting more lock-up problems now. Other odd things too.
It suddenly started to go off when it wasn't armed one day - 24hr light came on. Reset, and all OK after. Lock-ups on arming and dis-arming.
On one occasion when changing user code. So, have I overstretched the PSU on the system? I guess there must be a limit to how many PIRs can be powered from the panel. I cannot find this info anywhere. Does anyone know?? Any help appreciated.
As with most domestic alarm panels the omnicron will provide 1 Amp at 13.8 volts. A typical bellbox with sab module will use around 30mA in standby, and around 350mA when sounding. An internal speaker or Siren might also use 30mA standby and 350mA sounding, so in an alarm condition this would leave around 300mA spare for powering detectors.
A typical pir only uses between 10 and 20mA, so if we say 20mA per pir detector then in theory your panel will happily supply power for upto 15 pir detectors. So you from this you can see your not putting too much on the PSU. When your Omnicron starts to play up, its time to change it. You have done very well if youve had so few problems over the years, most Omnicrons start to play up over a much shorter time span.
The Omnicron unfortunataly is prone to suffer from all sorts of problems that most other control equipment can cope well with, not just static build up but Mains spikes and surges cause faults, EMF passed down through the alarm cabling can cause faults, close proximity to a strong transmitter, etc etc etc. Over the last 10 years, I must have replaced nearly 100 of these Omnicron panels, almost all have had the same random faults as you describe. Changing the panel has always cured the problem. Common problems with this alarm that we encountered before finally replacing it. Spurious PIR sensor triggers. This occurred usually in the middle of the night, and it took some time to track down the cause as a failing rechargeable battery in the control unit, which was pulling the 12V supply to the PIRs down to about 7V. This made them easy to trigger spuriously (such as by pressing any key).
Note that this problem occurs when the mains supply is operating normally. Maplin sell a suitable replacment battery for about 12.00. Inactive Keys. The control panel stops responding completely. The short term cure is to follow the same sequence as the forgotten PIN code. The fault will probably return. When the fault starts to happen on a regular basis, replace the alarm!
Forgotten PIN code The simplest way to reset the PIN is to disconnect the mains, open the control unit cover (two screws) and disconnect one of the (push fit) wires from the battery. Wait a few seconds and then reconnect. (note that the alarm will sound (tamper alert) from the point where you start to remove the cover, until you enter the PIN code). After re-assembly the PIN code is 1,2,3,4, and the alarm can be reset by entering 1,2,3,4,reset. Dave, Many thanks for the advice.
I guess I will have to face up to replacing the panel. It went off by itself last week whilst we were in Florida.
Fortunately one of my neighbours acts as keyholder and was able to silence it and reset it for us. It was claiming 24 hour (tamper) failure again.
I was thinking that replacement was the best option anyway. Given the investment already made in wiring, sensors, PIRs etc (all self-installed and seemingly OK), I would love to just change the panel. Can you recommend a suitable replacement that will suit the cabling arrangement of the Omnicron? I really appreciate the time you have taken to reply by the way; I searched everywhere for some indication of power loadings on panels generally. Regards, Mike PS Am I right in assuming that there is no way of stopping the Bell from activating when I disconnect the panel without climbing the ladder to the bell box and removing the battery? PS Am I right in assuming that there is no way of stopping the Bell from activating when I disconnect the panel without climbing the ladder to the bell box and removing the battery? Yes if you remove the Hold+ and Hold- the bell will just ring until either 20 minutes has elapsed assuming it has a built in timer or until the battery expires.
But you could drastically reduce this time by using the control panel battery as a standby feed for the bellbox while you wire up a new panel. In other words yes the bells will ring while the wires are being removed but by using a terminal block and the old panel battery and leads you could re-apply power to the bellbox while your working on the new control panel. Dave, I favour keeping to the existing panel size as it is already installed out of the way. I prefer the integral keypad as long as it is not prone to static problems!
I don't intend to go with monitoring - I live in a small village where we all keep an eye on each other's houses. Besides, I can avoid falling foul of the ACPO alarm false call rules this way! What I really want to avoid is re-wiring anything.
I've got everything coming neatly into the panel right now through trunking, etc, and if I can get a replacement that will suit the existing cabling with minumum re-working so much the better. Having said that I want reliability of course. Many thanks yet again.
It's good of you to keep running with this! Regards, Mike. Ive always liked the Gardner range of control panels and I think the 582 (Shown Below) is one of the best standard alarm panels on the market. Otherwise (Some dont like the Gardners sloping front) I`d probably go for the Texecom Veritas 8 control panel (Shown Below) Its also very good. But i still prefer the Gardner. I hope some other engineers also voice their opinions here, there are many good panels and really its down to which one your gonna prefer. Both the above are easy to program and have a proven track record.
Thanks everyone. As it happens I found a texacom veritas 8 panel locally. I liked the look of it, so I've bought and installed it. Managed to keep the bell quiet whilst I did it thanks to the tip re the battery! Everything worked OK, although I did have to change two old PIRs. The panel didn't always seem to notice the very brief pulses they were giving when activated. I've put in two new ones that work much better.
They seem to 'latch' for ten seconds or so once triggered. So thanks for the help. I went panel hunting before the tip re sourcing Gardtec panel in Bristol. I will keep it in mind when I next need another panel. Now we wait to see if everything stays reliable!
Of course, the problem might be with the SAB.!!
Dear all Thank you to all who helped me by sending links. Unfortunately, one of them contained a document that contained malware.
The doc id is: a1omnicron7000usermanual.exe It contained software that tried to modify my browser and was difficult to remove. The usual deleting options would not work with it. The only way I could get rid of it, was to open my Recycle Bin and drag and drop the file into it, then empty the bin. On a lighter note, while I was out the other day, the lovely Mrs H actually found my missing manual. So as a thank you, I'm attaching photos of each page of it.
It is more comprehensive than the ones in the links. Thanks again H PS The system has limited my upload to 10 pictures, so if anyone wants the rest, let me know.
Images 176 to 185 are attached. The full set goes from 176 to 210.
Have one of these alarms which I self installed many years ago. Found the original instructions - both installation and user.
Need to change a faulty sensor, but can't stop it going off when I open it up - the 24 hour circuit. I can get it into engineering mode, but can't for the life of me find instructions on how to totally disarm it. I've left it in that mode with the power turned off and will wait until the battery goes flat if no one has a better idea.Pentium wise, pen and paper foolish. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Kevin 31/7/2012, 23:56 น. On 23:21, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: Have one of these alarms which I self installed many years ago. Found the original instructions - both installation and user. Need to change a faulty sensor, but can't stop it going off when I open it up - the 24 hour circuit. On my old Omnicrom the easiest way, iirc, was to wedge the compression spring fastened to the anti-tamper switch in the panel under the corner of the main pcb - then cancel the alarm as normal. Has anyone ever had a burglar alarm disabled by an intruder?
- Kevin Poole Toby 1/8/2012, 1:46 น. On 23:21, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: Have one of these alarms which I self installed many years ago. Found the original instructions - both installation and user. Need to change a faulty sensor, but can't stop it going off when I open it up - the 24 hour circuit. I can get it into engineering mode, but can't for the life of me find instructions on how to totally disarm it. I've left it in that mode with the power turned off and will wait until the battery goes flat if no one has a better idea. If you put it into engineering mode, then open the alarm panel cover, does this still set it off?
If so, with the panel cover open, does putting the code in shut it up? Remove pants to reply Andrew Gabriel 1/8/2012, 2:11 น. In article, Toby wrote: On 23:21, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: Have one of these alarms which I self installed many years ago. Found the original instructions - both installation and user. Need to change a faulty sensor, but can't stop it going off when I open it up - the 24 hour circuit.
I can get it into engineering mode, but can't for the life of me find instructions on how to totally disarm it. I've left it in that mode with the power turned off and will wait until the battery goes flat if no one has a better idea. If you put it into engineering mode, then open the alarm panel coverdoes this still set it off? if so, with the panel cover open, does putting the code in shut it up? Not tried that. But couldn't shut it up with the other 24 hour circuit broken without making it again.
The battery was flat by this morning so it's sorted. Hope it will charge up again ok - it must be 15 years old.;-) -.Stable Relationships Are For Horses.
Download game simulator bus indonesia. Andrew Gabriel 1/8/2012, 4:48 น. In article, Andrew Gabriel wrote: In article'Dave Plowman (News)' writes: The battery was flat by this morning so it's sorted.
Hope it will charge up again ok - it must be 15 years old.;-) It likely won't, but it's well overdue for replacement anyway. Any idea how long it took to run flat? At least 4 hours before I went to bed. It's drawing a reasonable charge current, so may just be ok. Not that I'm worried anyway - can't remember the last power cut.Cover me. I'm changing lanes.
Dennis@home 1/8/2012, 5:21 น. 'Dave Plowman (News)' wrote in message news:[email protected]. Have one of these alarms which I self installed many years ago. Found the original instructions - both installation and user. Need to change a faulty sensor, but can't stop it going off when I open it up - the 24 hour circuit.
I can get it into engineering mode, but can't for the life of me find instructions on how to totally disarm it. I've left it in that mode with the power turned off and will wait until the battery goes flat if no one has a better idea. I don't think you can. It will only activate the internal sounder when you open it unless the engineer has enabled full alarm mode for the tamper circuit. You can cancel it once its gone off. If you let the main panel go flat the bell box will then ring for a few minutes/hours depending on which one you have.
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Leave the power on and change the sensor, its only 12V so there isn't much chance of you getting killed. Try not to short stuff out, I don't believe it will do any damage if you do, but it will probably start the damn alarm again. SteveW 1/8/2012, 8:36 น. On 10:11, Andrew Gabriel wrote: In articleKevin writes: Has anyone ever had a burglar alarm disabled by an intruder? A colleague at work had a break-in, and the only thing they stole was the burglar alarm. Theory was they were trying to shut it up, but the end result was rather ironic. I had student friends living in a tower block in Salford.
There were security guards based in the bottom of the tower 24/7, who also monitored the adjacent block via CCTV. Someone stole the cameras! SteveW Dave Plowman (News) 1/8/2012, 9:01 น. Dave Plowman (News) wrote: Have one of these alarms which I self installed many years ago.
Found the original instructions - both installation and user. Need to change a faulty sensor, but can't stop it going off when I open it up - the 24 hour circuit. I can get it into engineering mode, but can't for the life of me find instructions on how to totally disarm it. I've left it in that mode with the power turned off and will wait until the battery goes flat if no one has a better idea. Omnicron 9000:-) Did it ever have a proper engineering mode? My parents had one (in fact they still do have one, but it now only protects their garage).
ISTR just connecting the battery directly to the bell box when I worked on it. But that is some years ago. Adam adamko2020 1/8/2012, 12:23 น. Dennis@home wrote: 'Dave Plowman (News)' wrote in message news:[email protected]. Have one of these alarms which I self installed many years ago. Found the original instructions - both installation and user.
Need to change a faulty sensor, but can't stop it going off when I open it up - the 24 hour circuit. I can get it into engineering mode, but can't for the life of me find instructions on how to totally disarm it. I've left it in that mode with the power turned off and will wait until the battery goes flat if no one has a better idea.
I don't think you can. It will only activate the internal sounder when you open it unless the engineer has enabled full alarm mode for the tamper circuit.
You can cancel it once its gone off. If you let the main panel go flat the bell box will then ring for a few minutes/hours depending on which one you have. Leave the power on and change the sensor, its only 12V so there isn't much chance of you getting killed. Define 'isn't much chance' - Adam adamko2020 1/8/2012, 12:29 น. In article, ARWadsworth wrote: Omnicron 9000:-) Did it ever have a proper engineering mode? Seems to have.
My parents had one (in fact they still do have one, but it now only protects their garage). ISTR just connecting the battery directly to the bell box when I worked on it. It was quite sophisticated in its day. Has all the facilities I need. And had far less false alarms than all the pro installed units around me.;-) -.I'll try being nicer if you'll try being smarter Mike Tomlinson 2/8/2012, 10:30 น. Mike Tomlinson wrote: En el artculo, ARWadsworth escribi: I can disable most systems.
Omnicron 8000 Alarm Panel Manual
However I need to put a ladder up to the bellbox to do it (silent activation) what about self-contained bells? If you know the layout of the innards of a bellbox then you know where to cut a hole in the cover to expose the electrics without activating the tamper. You can do whatever you want when you have access to the terminals and the alarm is not sounding. Adam dennis@home 2/8/2012, 11:57 น. On 23:45, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: It was quite sophisticated in its day. Has all the facilities I need. And had far less false alarms than all the pro installed units around me.;-) I had an omnicron purchased from Maplin Electronics (probably 15/20 years ago).
The instructions were.#@! And the additional notes supplied by Maplin were, at best, rather amateurish. In the end I wrote my own two page operational notes and set-up procedure. It served me well until about 2 months ago when it failed with a PSU fault.
I was going to repair it but decided that life was too short to bother when I found that I could get a control box at a reasonable price from TLC. Adamko2020 2/8/2012, 13:43 น. Dennis@home wrote: 'Mike Tomlinson' wrote in message news:[email protected]. En el artculo, ARWadsworth escribi: I can disable most systems.
However I need to put a ladder up to the bellbox to do it (silent activation) what about self-contained bells? That depends on how cheap they are. If you can get to the wiring (e.g. By prising it off the wall or cutting holes in it) you can connect a battery to it and stop it ringing or just remove the internal battery from the PCB. Better ones have double skins (the big chubb triangular ones for instance) and multiple attachment places for the anti tamper circuit. I have glued a thin wire 'grid' to the inside of my cheap bell box so if the cover is forced and/or cut the wire breaks, the anti-tamper being feed through it. Its a trick I learnt in my first full time job at Chubb alarms in Brum.
They do the same thing when they board windows up, etc. I know a way around that:-) - Adam.